Arrival at the Cathedral de Santiago
I did not think this would be hard to write since this pilgrimage has been one of the best adventures I have ever taken. And it wasn't hard to set down and start writing all the details. Then I realized how much I had written, and I had only gotten to the first day of my walk. Obviously, I would have to take a different angle on writing this or it would end up a 10-part mini-series. So, this is the Reader's Digest condensed version (with LOTS of pictures).
My trip began with multiple flight delays and cancellations, extended waits in the airport and on the tarmac in the plane but I finally made it to Madrid, Spain. My lack of Spanish at this point was a hindrance but with some little stress I navigated my way to the hotel, dinner out and back to the airport the following day to fly to Oviedo where my pilgrimage was to begin.
Oviedo is a large city in northern Spain in the region of Asturias. It is an old city with the Catedral de San Salvador or Cathedral of Our Savior near the city center. This was my first stop to obtain my credential which is the paperwork carried throughout the pilgrimage to verify my journey. I also toured the Cathedral which houses thousands of artifacts. Among the most notable to me were the Shroud of Oviedo (the cloth wrapped around Jesus' head after he died), one of the pieces of silver paid to Judas for his betrayal, and a stone water jug that was used to hold water when Jesus turned the water into wine. I cannot describe how I felt gazing on these relics from Jesus' life and time. There were many other artifacts and relics of various saints and items used in celebration of the mass in earlier times. This Cathedral alone would have been worth a visit to Spain, but I was to see and experience so much more.
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| Catedral de San Salvador in Oviedo |
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| Water Jug |
Shroud of Oviedo
Inside Catedral de San Salvador
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| Museum of Fine Art in Oviedo |
I spent a few days exploring the city, visiting historic sites, developing a palate for Spanish cuisine, shopping for necessities for the journey and absorbing as much as possible of Spain.
By the third day I was anxious to start walking. So, I arose early and began. Those first days I kept an almost grueling pace, afraid that I would not be able to get to my destination in time. After a few days at this speed, I realized how much better my journey would be if I slowed to a reasonable pace and experienced more of my surroundings and still have plenty of time to arrive at my destination. As I left Oviedo I noted others that were starting their walk as well. Most of these fellow travelers I would continue to see daily for the next few weeks. Even when there was no common language we gradually found ourselves spending time together both on and off the trail and developed a camaraderie that was unique to pilgrims. A few persons I would walk with on the trail sharing stories or our background and then never see again because their journey was slower or faster than mine. Others I would see every day at some point and usually eat together at night. I never once felt unsafe or threatened and walked trusting that God would see me through to the end.
Last view as I walked out of Oviedo
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| Lots of animals were along the way |
Nightly laundry in the albergues
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| A chapel with former pilgrim hospital |
The region where my walk began was the region of Asturias in northern Spain and had some of the most beautiful scenery I have ever seen. I walked from one small, picturesque village to the next usually only a few miles apart. Some were so small that they only contained a few homes while others were moderately large towns with restaurants, shops, churches, homes and lodging for pilgrims. Overall Asturias seemed very pastoral and the path I walked was predominantly a well-eroded dirt trail used by pilgrims, locals and their livestock. When my vantage point looked down on the valleys they could be misted over with fog or dazzlingly brilliant and green. While walking through the valleys my path was decorated with an amazing display of flowers, trees and small fields of hay or corn. Many of the local people as well as fellow pilgrims would recognize me for the pilgrim I was and wish me "buen camino." Instead of the sounds of traffic and other modern-day noises I heard the tinkling of cow bells, crowing of roosters, bird song and also the frequent sound of a hiking stick tapping rhythmically on the ground. All my senses were awakened and alive in this place.
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| A misty morning |
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| Bell tower of a small church |
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| Taking a break and cooling feet in the fountain |
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| The beautiful town of Tineo |
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| Santa Mariá de Obono |
I walked alone for most of my journey and had time for reflection on recent events that had altered my purpose and I also had time to talk with God. I prayed for help for those on my prayer list, for thanksgiving for so many blessings I have received, for a safe and rewarding journey and for so many other things. Because this has been a site of pilgrimage for centuries there were many small chapels and sometimes larger churches along the way. Some could not be entered, others allowed visitors, and a few had a bell rope to pull. I carried with me some prayer cards from my son's funeral and left them on bulletin boards and other sites where prayers and offerings were found. I paused each time in prayerful reflection of events passed and asked God for help moving forward. One particular day I took a secondary route to view a notable church. As I stopped to take photos and walk around I was joined by a group of ladies that were near my age. They had little or no English and my Spanish was sketchy, so communication was difficult. Yet somehow I did communicate with one of them and found that she had lost her son also. We somehow shared pictures, names, ages and our grief. We parted with tears and a hug that day knowing we were not strangers any longer.
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| Leaving prayer cards along the way |
As I walked I moved out of Asturias into the region of Galicia. The landscape changed and the path did also. Fields became larger as did some of the cities. The path frequently followed paved or dirt roads instead of a forest path. Although I had hoped the terrain would flatten out the strenuous nature of up and downhill walking continued. It was about this time that my foot problems began worsening. My plantar fasciitis was joined by a new type of pain that I have since learned is due to Morton's neuroma. On my longest day of planned walking (that was nearly all paved roads and 28 miles) I felt I would have to have some type of break to rest my foot. I had to make a decision about continuing. If I had been walking and finding a place at the end of each day I could have more easily walked little or remained in the same place an extra day. As I had reservations and changing them all would be very difficult, I elected to take a bus for part of my journey on that longest day. After walking about 4 miles I stopped in a small town and caught the bus to Lugo, a large city with a cathedral that marks approximately 100 km from Santiago.
I was just a little disappointed with myself but felt this was a way to allow some rest so that I could continue. In hindsight I was glad that I had done this. Having some extra time in the city allowed me to tour the cathedral and walk the top of the ancient Roman wall that surrounds old town. These walls are a UNESCO world heritage site. They are the largest surviving Roman walls in the world and contain 85 rounded towers. The Cathedral de Santa Maria was yet another treasure worth visiting rich with architectural detail and filled with historic treasures. The more modern city of Lugo is found outside the Roman walls.
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One chapel within the Catedral de Santa Maria
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| A section of the Roman wall surrounding old town |
The following morning before daylight I set out again walking. My pain was to continue for the rest of my journey but the rest I had taken helped me to finish. I was again walking with the fellow pilgrims that I had begun to know as friends. There were times when I walked with others and times that I walked alone. But by days end most of us ended up in the same place and would share a meal together. The route was much more crowded after leaving Lugo because 100 km is the minimum walking distance required to obtain a Compostela. Crowded trails increased again when the French route joined the Primitivo in Melide.
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| Cathedral in early morning |
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| A small church on the outskirts of Lugo |
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| Sunrise outside of Lugo |
Credential with stamps from places en route
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| One of many cemeteries and churches |
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| Friends sharing a meal of octopus |
The day I was to enter Santiago I walked alone. I set out in the dark with my headlamp guiding my way anticipating meeting others on the way. I had thought to walk for an hour or so and get some breakfast and wait for some others to catch up to enter the city together. I should have looked closer at my guidebook as there were no bars (the small cafes were always referred to as bars by the locals) directly on the route until I had walked for several hours. By this time, I was so near the city that I grabbed a quick bite and then pushed on. Just nearing the outskirts was exciting but finding my way to the plaza in front of the Cathedral of St. James where my journey ended was a moment I will never forget. I had arrived before 10 a.m. and there were not a lot of pilgrims or tourists there yet. I took a few pictures and began looking for people that I knew. As this was the end point for numerous different pilgrim routes there were many people I had not previously seen. As the numbers of people began increasing I thought I should try to get in line to obtain my Compostela. This was a process that would take me several hours, but I finally obtained my Certificate of Distance and Compostela verifying I had walked 310 km on the Primitivo route and completed my pilgrimage.
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| First view of Santiago |
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| Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela |
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| Pilgrims waiting for their Compostela |
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| My Compostela |
The friends I had made while walking finally arrived and it was like having a reunion repeatedly throughout the day. It seemed everyone was drawn to the plaza in front of the cathedral to meet fellow pilgrims, grab another photo or just gaze on the majesty and beauty of the cathedral and think about our accomplishment.
To complete the requirements for plenary indulgence as set forth by the Catholic Church I also needed to participate in the Sacrament of Reconciliation (confession), attend mass and pray for the Pope. There are several pilgrim masses in the Cathedral throughout the day and I completed all my requirements as soon as possible. Having completed them I was filled with peace and hope. I returned to the cathedral for mass every day for the 3 days I was there.
I visited the tomb of St. James which resides in a chamber under the main altar of the cathedral. I also toured the cloisters and Cathedral museum. I walked through the Pilgrim's door which is only open during holy years. I should have made reservations weeks before for the rooftop tour and viewing of the Portico de la Gloria. The Portico is the original entrance of the cathedral. Traditionally Pilgrims would enter through the open archway to the cathedral on their knees and place their hand at the feet of the statue of St. James. The Portico is the work of the master builder of the Cathedral, Maestro Mateo. It was completed in 1211 after more than a century of work. I also failed to get to see the swinging of the botafumeiro (this only occurs on holy days and rare special occasion). I was drawn to return to the cathedral time and again to walk around the different plazas surrounding it, listening to the bagpipe player, taking more photos or just sitting quietly either inside or outside.
The day after arriving I was wandering around the cathedral once again in the early morning when I met one of the pilgrims who had traveled the same path each day as I had. He managed despite language barriers to invite me to go to mass with him and a few others after which I was invited to the markets to pick out fresh seafood and meat to prepare for lunch. Not living close to the ocean the choices did not look that great to me, but I thought I would enjoy the company if nothing else. It was a wonderful day spent with the people that had shared my journey. We celebrated with wonderful food (I was surprised how much I liked all the different shellfish) and more than a few bottles of wine and beer. From this meal I made my farewells to everyone as they were all leaving that day or early the next. I was somewhat sad to say goodbye knowing I would most likely never see or hear from any of them again. I will always remember their kindnesses along my journey. They chose to include me even though my participation was so limited by our language differences. They would always greet me on the trail and ask if I was okay. They had become my pilgrim family.
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| fresh seafood in the market |
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| Sharing a meal with my Pilgrim family |
After three days I was ready to be home. A flight back to Madrid for an overnight stay with an early flight the next morning. I had scheduled my required Covid test on arriving in Madrid and received my negative result. The following morning I boarded the plane for the long flight home. Fortunately, there were not travel delays this time and I arrived home as expected. It was so good to be home with family again, but I knew this experience had changed me.
Now it has been just over 4 months since I've returned and I still miss my journey and fellow Pilgrims. I don't know if I will ever get the opportunity to make another pilgrimage. I hope I do. But if not, I am thankful that I was able to experience this pilgrimage now. The beauty of the country, the majestic cathedrals, the humble chapels, the friendliness of the people and the reverence found in small moments of time will remain with me forever.
Some recommended links for additional information:
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| Streets of Santiago at night |
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| Botafumeira |
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| Praza do Obradoiro (plaza in front of Cathedral) |
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| crypt in Catedral de Santiago de Compostela |
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| Horreo (grain storage) |
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| One of the types of markers that guide the way of Pilgrims |
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| Roman wall and entry into old town in Lugo |
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| Ruins of an ancient hospital |
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| 16th century church in Salas |
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| typical accommodations in the albergues |
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| one of many small chapels on the way |
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| path through Galicia |
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| Marín and Dani taking a break |
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| Asturias |
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| Río Navia near the dam |
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| Berducedo |
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| walking through a pine forest |
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| the Hospitalés route boasts the best views but the weather prevented seeing them |
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| mountains of Asturias |
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| morning fog |
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| street in Tineo |
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| another Horreo |
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| bronze shells in the sidewalk mark the way |
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| seen in Oviedo |
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| in Cathedral in Oviedo |
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| Cloisters of Cathedral in Oviedo |
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| café con leche |
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| fresh scallops with friends |
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| Catedral de Santiago de Compostela |
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| Streets of Santiago |
